Kayaking up the Chicago River Lends Itself to a Pretty Safe Adventure

September 2nd, 2008
GREG WROTE:

This is what I wish happened when we went kayaking:

1. I would have gotten the chance to save somebody. Claire. Old fisherman. A family of seven from an engulfed seven-person canoe. Anybody.

2. I would have come across a duckling that was dangerously far behind the gaggle. My plan for the rescue:


I’d place the duckling on a paddle head.




Then comes my downward-slamming fist.

And the duckling twirls through the air, landing right back in the duckling line as if a correctly aimed paddle was never slammed on its benefit.

3. I would have been able to win over the trust of at least one turtle, enabling me to follow him or her back to a festival of turtles. There I would learn their language, eat their culture’s food, and dance, dance, dance.

4. I would have paddled up next to some hotshot guy who had just proclaimed himself - via megaphone - as the fastest kayaker on the Chicago River. It would be the “Grease Lightning with Paddles and Floating Trash” the world has been waiting for.

5. A corked bottle would have bobbed up right next to me. Upon opening it, I would discover a Bed, Bath & Beyond coupon declaring 30% Off (as opposed to a 20% Off one I find in the mail every week) any item in the store. The rest of the afternoon would be spent comparing thread counts.

6. Hot river sex.







Chicago River Canoe & Kayak
3400 N Rockwell
773.704.2663
Single kayaks $15/hr




CLAIRE WROTE:

I’ve truly had some disastrous kayaking trips. Well, maybe just one, in particular.

It took place several years ago on a trip to Thailand with a couple of girlfriends. Lucy and Holly and I were in Thailand for reasons involving a poorly executed and failed business plan, about which I won’t go into specific details. Nonetheless, one sunny morning found us on the island of Koh Chang wondering what to do with ourselves. Lucy decided to shower while Holly and I bickered out our plans and finally settled on kayaking.

The kind hotel staff, who had taken to calling us “Charlie Angel,” waved goodbye to the three of us as we set out on a kayaking mission to, what we thought, was a nearby island. Suffice to say, three hours later found us in the middle of the ocean, under the noonday sun, barely half way to the deceptively “nearby” island, all of us exhausted and arguing, Lucy keeping quiet about a fin she was sure she had just seen and me, actually toting a Coach purse along with me for God knows what reasons. I mean, really, who takes a Coach purse kayaking in Thailand?

Anyway, you would think I’ve learned my lesson about biting off more than I can chew when it comes to kayaking. Apparently not, because on Sunday when Greg and I showed up at the Chicago River Paddle boat shack to pick up our reserved kayaks for the day, I did my best to get us into another disaster of a kayaking trip.

This was our first time kayaking on the Chicago River, something we’ve been meaning to do all summer long, and only now have we gotten around to it on this the last weekend of summer. I really had my heart set on kayaking downtown to the Loop. It just seemed like such a cool idea and I felt strongly, before leaving the house, that nothing was going to sway me from getting to kayak straight through the middle of the city, all those enormous skyscrapers rising up around me.

So even after the kayaking guy told us that he strongly advised us NOT to paddle down to the Loop, as it would be at least a 5 hour round trip and there would be nowhere to use the restroom the entire time, and we would have to paddle upstream the whole way back, and they offered a lovely guided tour with a pick up at the end that we could take some time, I STILL put on my poutiest face and did a good job of *almost* convincing Greg that we should still do it, for adventure’s sake.

I’ll just say now that I’m really glad I listen to my husband sometimes. Or perhaps that he doesn’t listen to me sometimes. Needless to say, we did not paddle to the Loop and instead had a very pleasant experience paddling around for a couple of hours, heading North through our neighborhood, admiring ducks and turtles and blue heron and each other. On the way back, going downstream, my arms already sore, although I wasn’t quite ready to admit defeat, I was secretly very glad I had not won out on the adventure argument.

I think one should only have one disastrous kayaking trip in a lifetime, no?




We Paddled, We Pushed Up, And We Totally Surfed in Costa Rica

August 25th, 2008
GREG WROTE:

One thing I regret in this life is that I didn’t take skateboarding seriously. I had a skateboard when I was 10 or so and I even had a quarter pipe that my carpenter grandfather built for me and my siblings, but all I really did was kneel or sit on my board and zip down my long driveway until I came to a stop.

Picture this: Four-to-six Boose kids lined up at the top of their paved hill, all sitting on their un-scarred skateboards, and then they all descend the hill at the same time and try to push each other off their boards. The winner was the one who was still on their board, or the one who went the furthest.

That’s how I skateboarded.

That’s how I… uh, rolled back then.

It’s one of those things I try to blame on growing up on a farm. Like not being too good on a bicycle or having strong bones.

In fact, I blame the lack of sidewalks growing up often.

And I somehow feel too fragile at the age of 29 to take on skateboarding. Someone will offer me their board every so often and I balk in fear of breaking my skull.

But when it came to the sport of surfing, I didn’t have to come up with any lame excuses. I had valid ones. None of the cool kids uptown surfed, my older brothers weren’t surfers, I’d never been to California and had maybe seen an ocean only a few times (in Florida and South Carolina) by the age of 15.

When I saw that surfing lessons were being offered at our hotel on our Costa Rica trip, however, I turned to Claire and said, quite softly, that I was taking them.

Not to my surprise, Claire said she wanted to surf too. Even though she’d lived on the Pacific Ocean in LA for the last five years, she’d never tried it.

Of course, on the morning of our lesson, Claire and I arrived to the beach 25 minutes or so early. We were told to be there at least 10 minutes before it started, but I wasn’t about to get lost and miss this. When we got there, we didn’t see any surf boards, surf instructors, or… anybody. An empty Costa Rican beach with the rain forest enclosing it.

Thinking that we were on the wrong stretch, we walked right. Nothing. Just vultures and rocks. Then we walked waaaaay left, getting more nervous by the minute that we were going to fuck this opportunity up. Nothing again. Then it started to rain, steadily. Pretty defeated, we trudged back to where we entered the beach and yes, there’s our instructor waiting for his students.

Oldemar, our instructor, handed us some lycra-ish red surf shirts, placed a board on the sand, and taught the five of us (a dad and his two teenage kids were also there) how to paddle out, how to stand up once you caught a wave, and how to jump correctly off your board when you know you’re about to wipe out.

Ten minutes later we’re paddling in the Pacific, using shoulder muscles rarely ever used. Claire got out there first and I blushed from the back of my neck to the balls of my feet. Exhausted and bobbing in line, I watched Oldemar point Claire toward the beach and wait for a good wave. One came and there Claire went, out front of a wave on her stomach and… she never tried to stand up.

Claire.

Finally I’m pointed at the beach next to a floating Oldemar and I attempt small talk until he spotted a decent wave for me. “Ok, you ready?” And he shoved me hard, perfectly timed to catch the wave behind me. I went through the motions I had just learned, but my body was soon treading in the water instead of in that arms-out surfer pose.

Claire got up on her next turn and we’re all screaming for her. I was so impressed and proud. And jealous.

Bobbing out there and waiting my next turn, I start patting around my neck to see if I accidentally slipped on a voodoo idol like the one Greg Brady wore when the Bunch hit up Hawaii. Nope, no voodoo idol. Just a good sized lump enclosed in my throat.

I’m up front again and it’s a blur of Oldemar telling me what I did wrong the last time and me seeing a wave reflecting in his widening eyes and him asking if I’m ready and me surrounded by rushing, white bubbling water on my board and me going mechanically through the motions until, hey, I was surfing.

How. Cool.

I paddled back out after my ride came to an end, and I’m just daring any creatures of the water to get in my way now. One of my hands was cupped for paddling and the other was almost in a fist, ready to slug any shark nose I might see.

I got up four or five more times, each time getting closer to the beach than the last. Claire was on her feet every time she tried now. We’re totally surfing. And I’m totally picturing the fliers I’m going to print up in six months: “Come See the Surfin’ Spouses Trick Out the Biggest Waves in Maui… All While Blindfolded and Knitting Santa Sweaters!!! PLUS See Greg Punch Sharks Right in the Face!!!”

When it came down to it, though, we kinda cheated. We didn’t have to paddle to catch our waves, but instead got shoved into them by a professional surfer. It’s like a toddler screaming “I’m riding a bike!” when they’re using training wheels.

But for an Ohio farm boy who was too scared to really get into skateboarding when he was a kid, this was pretty gratifying.


CLAIRE WROTE:

It was Greg’s idea to take surf lessons in Costa Rica. We were in the Osa Peninsula, on a travel writing trip focusing on sustainable tourism, and we were trying to soak up (pun kind of intended) as much of the rain forest as possible. Surfing hadn’t been on the forefront of the things I wanted to do while we were there.

National Geographic calls the Osa Peninsula the “most biologically intense place on earth. Yes, on earth.” And it was. Full of monkeys and impossible-to-spot sloths, giant frogs and tree crabs…and me and Greg, sloshing through the jungle in big, black galoshes.

We were staying at an ecolodge called Lapa Rios and there was a daily list of guided tours and activities that guests could participate in. Had it not been for Greg, my eyes would have skimmed right over “Surf Lessons,” alighting perhaps on “Mangrove Kayak Tour” or “Rainforest Ridge Walk,” but Greg was hooked on the idea of taking surf lessons…and after some thought, I decided I’d rather take them too, than sit on the beach squinting at my husband as he attempted to stand up in the waves.

It’s funny that after four years of living in Venice Beach, California and watching bare-foot, sun-bleached surfers walk by my window every morning, I would try surfing for the first time in Costa Rica. But perhaps there’s good reason for that. The idea that my first attempt to stand on a moving object in the ocean would be witnessed only by strangers, rather than the potential disaster of having some cool Venice surfer guy privy to my initial foray into this competitive sport, made me feel just a bit more at ease.

We met up with our surf instructor on a pretty desolate beach around 10AM on our last day on the peninsula. His name was Oldemar and he was young and cut, with that ocean-water-scraggly hair that all surfers seem to have. He nodded sagely after speaking and said “Cali” instead of California, even though he was Costa Rican and had never traveled stateside. He tossed each of us a red surf shirt and I put mine on, feeling like one of my cats probably does when I try to make it wear some kind of outfit.

After that he threw a surfboard on the sand and began to demonstrate the various positions we would be using in our attempts to stand up on the board. I could feel my cheeks grow hot when he told us we all had to practice, right there in front of each other. There were five of us, by the way. Me and Greg and a dad with his two teenage kids, a boy and a girl. Why I would be embarrassed in front of them is anyone’s guess, but I think I would have been embarrassed to mimic standing on a surfboard in front of anyone.

As a side note, about a year ago, Greg made me pose with him in a fake surfing set-up at a festival here in Chicago. The three minutes we were on that board were truly some of the most humiliating of my entire life. However, I will always be grateful to Greg for forcing me into this, simply for the photo that came out of it.

It took both me and the other girl three tries to get the positions right, the guys only having to mimic our instructor once to feign their surf posture. Finally, we were ready to go. As I carried my board atop my head on our way to the water, visions of Keanu Reeves and Lori Petty swam through my head, the surfing lesson montage and Petty’s gravely voice saying “Pop, pop!” as Keanu struggled to stand and was mocked by the other surfers.

And then we were paddling out to the break and I quickly realized that I had no arm muscles to speak of. It was literally some of the toughest arm exercises I’d ever done. No wonder Oldemar (and every other surfer I’ve ever seen) was so ripped. Miraculously, I somehow beat everyone in our little group, husband included, out to the spot where Oldemar was waiting for us.

He immediately took hold of my board and spun me around. “You ready?!” he shouted, and shoved me off. It was so exhilarating that I literally forgot to stand up. Well, I forgot at first and then when I remembered that standing was the goal it felt like it was too late and I would look stupid if I did it now. I sheepishly rolled off the board, turning around to paddle back just in time to catch a glimpse of the teenage girl shakily rising to a crouch on her board as she coasted toward shore.

Her brother was next, immediately collapsing off his board as he tried to pop into standing and then Greg went, falling over immediately as well. The second time Oldemar shoved me out into a wave, I thought hard about the positions we had learned. Back foot forward, a planted hand, then another foot. I moved my right hand and then suddenly I was squatting on my board. Slowly, I rose up, until I was in that classic surfer pose: knees bent, one arm stretched out in front and the other in back, a sloppy grin on my face as I coasted along the wave.

I watched Greg stand on the next wave, and I caught half a dozen more myself, only finding myself standing when I really followed through with the positions our instructor had guided us through. Finally, I could paddle out no more and I took my last wave in, as close to the shore as I could get, before falling over on my side into the water, exhilarated and exhausted and totally surprised by how much fun I’d had.




Heading South to Central America

August 15th, 2008
GREG WROTE:

We’re leaving for Costa Rica tomorrow morning for a travel writing gig.
That means no posts for a week or so. If I knew any Spanish, I’d try to say something goofy in it right here.


CLAIRE WROTE:

Yo soy la Reina de las Cabras.












We’ll Have the Meat, Please, But Without the Steroids and Hormones and Well, the Meat

August 12th, 2008
GREG WROTE:

I’m sure this happens to you: There’s a person reading a book right next to you while you’re trying to concentrate on something else, and that person keeps gasping or sighing or saying “What?” or “Oh my gosh” or “Can I read you this?” or “Would you please just move over a little bit? You’re on my bad leg and you smell like someone poured chili on a gym mat?”

Claire has been reading a lot of social- and health-conscious books lately like “The Omnivore’s Dilemma” and “Skinny Bitch.” And quite often she’ll read me an excerpt or paragraph about the horrors of the meat and dairy industries. I mean, she’ll read me some real disgusting shit about steroids, force-feeding, slaughter house conditions, farming practices, pesticides, dyes in milk and government secrets. She has practically given up eating all kinds of meat, not just the scarlet kind.

I’m more conscious now as a result, and I think twice about where I buy my chicken and steaks. I’m also more aware at restaurants and don’t mind asking if their beef is grass-fed (or if they could turn down the fucking Cubs game).

So when Claire asked if I wanted to try The Chicago Diner, a restaurant in Boystown that boasts being meat-free since 1983, I was more than ready. Not only is it vegetarian, but it offers a vegan option for every dish on the menu. All their wines and beer are organic and clarified using clay (as opposed to using egg, bone or fish) and the desserts are dairy, egg, and trans-fat free. And they don’t have a dozen flatscreens playing the Cubs game.

We started off with the “chicken wings,” which are tofu strips in an organic BBQ sauce that feel like boneless ribs in your mouth. Pretty good. Not enough kick for me. Here’s a dark picture of them:

I ordered the black beans and rice topped with tofu for my entree, and surrounding those items on my plate were nice helpings of sauerkraut, sprouts, steamed kale and carrots. Again, I apologize for the dark picture (we were on the back patio at night):

Filling and delicious.

I’d totally promise Claire to eat here on a regular basis, but that’s only if she’d stop interrupting me all the time with facts about the puss and blood from the cow’s udder that’s in my dyed milk.
































Chicago Diner
3411 N Halstead
773.935.6696

CLAIRE WROTE:

I’ve been thinking about the way I eat for a long time. And, unfortunately, not so much in a calorie-counting way. More in a “Is this good for my body or is it filled with chemicals, steroids, pesticides, hormones?” kind of way. Watching two parents die of cancer will make you really suspicious of the microwave. And the beef industry. And the pesticides used on produce. And the hormones that are probably lurking in your milk. And the cancer-causing flavor-enhancer BHT (that was banned in Europe eons ago but not in the States of course) in your pack of Orbitz gum.

But even as much as I refuse to put things in the microwave, am somewhat suspicious of Saran Wrap and would, under no circumstances, ever eat at a McDonald’s, I still find it challenging to maintain a diet that is completely free of all the dangers our foods are filled with. And I’m not neurotic enough to be really diligent about it either. I simply stick to not using the microwave (yes, I’m serious about this one and won’t even stand in the same room if it’s on), buying mostly organic products and not eating red meat.

Lately though, I’ve been toying with the idea of going vegetarian. Although I can easily go a whole week, and often do, on a vegetarian diet, I’m thinking of getting pretty strict about it. I do still enjoy fish and chicken and BACON but the more I read — and I’ve been reading a lot lately — the harder of a time I have putting these animals in my body. I’ve recently read two books — The Omnivore’s Dilemma and Skinny Bitch — which both elaborate heavily on the atrocities of the current US food industry, particularly the beef, chicken and pork industries. And while I won’t repeat the facts and statistics (if you’re really interested then you can read them for yourselves), I will say that I think I’m ready to begin making a major diet change.

All of this is leading up to say how Greg and I had dinner at The Chicago Diner the other night. One of Chicago’s best and oldest vegetarian restaurants. Now, I’ve eaten at a fair amount of vegetarian restaurants, and although he likes his vegetables, I think this was Greg’s first time really trying faux meat dishes. I’d actually eaten at The Chicago Diner once before and when I lived in Los Angeles I went out for vegetarian food quite a bit. Fairly often I’d visit Real Food Daily in Santa Monica and Native Foods in Westwood — two fantastic vegan and raw restaurants.

Early on in these vegetarian forays, I discovered that eating a meat-free meal leaves you feeling much different than its alternative. I feel lighter and more energized after a vegetarian meal than I ever have consuming even just a basic chicken dish. I also discovered that I really like tofu and seitan (made from wheat gluten) and I think the reason I haven’t gone vegetarian sooner is because I haven’t really learned to cook with these things yet. (My next adventure).

Anyway, we had a great dinner. Greg will probably tell you that our service was lacking (they were really busy!) and that his margarita wasn’t awesome (it’s a vegetarian restaurant, not a Mexican joint!) but, overall, I thought it was great. We started with some fake chicken wings, which could have spicier but which I still enjoyed, and then I had and loved…

… The tender sun-dried tomato polenta, topped with oven roasted sweet potatoes, garlic sauteed spinach & onions, melted cheese, with spiced black beans & Spanish rice & marinara. ($12.95)

The polenta was perfect and the heaps of sauteed spinach and black beans left me feeling full but not heavy.

For dessert we had a really fantastic vegan carrot cake. I actually know the baker for the Chicago Diner, Malissa Winkowski– she’s the best friend of a good friend of mine and we’ll be bridesmaids together next year so I’ll probably get to know her a lot better then — but I’ve had her desserts at parties before and never doubted that whatever we ordered would be out of this world.

Our dinner at The Chicago Diner just reinforced my budding desire to go vegetarian. There are so many good reasons…and not really any bad ones.



Lollapalooza Day 3 - We Heard that NIN was Pretty Sweet

August 8th, 2008
GREG WROTE:

So, and I hate to say that this happened, we didn’t make it to Day 3. My ankle blew up overnight (see Day 2 post), mainly because I walked around on it the day before instead of icing it and keeping it elevated and whispering encouragement to it.

I didn’t make the final decision to bail until my Sunday already seemed so full. In the early morning, we got a new kitten.

He’s a Russian Blue, like our other cat. And his name is Lincoln for the following reasons:

1. We live very close to the Lincoln Square neighborhood which includes Lincoln Avenue.
2. He freed the slaves that toiled in the sadness fields of my heart.

Claire, meanwhile, had let her summer cold catch up to her. And while she rested that early afternoon and watched the cats make small talk at the wet bar, Joe, Tarek and I drove to Schaumburg to Medieval Times.

I know that you’re supposed to be a part of a 10-year-old’s birthday party when you find yourself at Medieval Times, but the three of us are so insane about the movie “Cable Guy” that it was inevitable that one day we would all go to this chain restaurant where Jim Carrey and Matthew Broderick filmed a glorious 10-minute scene.

So, there we were, watching actors fight in the sandpit arena below us, us living out some ridiculous fantasy.

We ate with our hands, cheered for the Blue Knight, and laughed at ourselves for being so excited about being there.

Here’s a picture of a 63-year-old man being “knighted” by “the king” on “his birthday”:

During the performance/meal, though, my ankle started to throb. I bought the Lolla tix specifically to see The National and Nine Inch Nails, but I was certain that I’d be a mess over there that day, limping along without a crutch or a cool walking stick.

Joe and Tarek went, later telling me that NIN put on a spectacular light show and played a really good set. Damn. Claire and I ended up sitting on the couch with the air conditioner on high, paying a lot of attention to the new kitten and watched “Lost Boys.”

CLAIRE WROTE:

Day Three of Lollapalooza was, by far, my favorite day. We didn’t go.

Instead, I spent the most gloriously mundane Sunday at home. In the morning I made a frittata and watched Greg ice his ankle which had swollen up even more. Eventually I rustled up an ace bandage and wrapped him, good and tight.

Even though I didn’t want Greg to be in pain, I was secretly excited by his new club foot. I knew it meant that we probably wouldn’t go to Day Three of Lollapalooza, and even though I would be sorry to miss Iron and Wine and The National, I was much more enthused about a day at home.

In the late morning we got a new addition to the household: a young Russian Blue kitten that we named Lincoln. Getting a third cat was totally Greg’s idea and he was so fired up that he even put an ad on craigslist.org looking for the perfect one. Turns out he actually did a great job. One of our older cats, Reynold, has taken to Lincoln like a big brother, and the two of them can’t get enough of each other.

The rest of the day was spent amusingly watching Greg and his friends watch “Cable Guy” in preparation for their outing to Medieval Times. When they finally left, the house was blissfully quiet and peaceful. I nursed my summer cold (which had only been exacerbated by Lollapalooza) on the couch while I worked on our wedding photo album. I then read through a stack of magazines on the coffee table that I’d been meaning to read through, wrote a couple of of thank you notes and made a grocery list.

Perfectly mundane and boring. And so the opposite of hot, crazy Lollapalooza.

I don’t think that I’ll go back next year. In fact, I’m sure that I won’t. I’ll probably never attend another music festival unless there are special VIP circumstances involved. That said, I think it’s great for some people. I’m glad all those sweaty, college boys have a reason to go outside once a year. And I know that Greg has fun with his buddies, and I’ll fully support his decision if wants to go next year.

And I’m glad for the experience of it. I mean, it sounded really great — all those bands, one big, exciting weekend. I loved hearing Radiohead flood through the nighttime streets of Chicago. I’m glad I finally registered to vote in Chicago. I’m glad I now know that if I start to black out in line for tacos, my husband will make sure I’m okay. I loved tapping my flip-flops to Sharon Jones and I loved the tears that slipped down my cheeks listening to Wilco, huge against the night sky.

There are good things to be found in every experience. Some experiences are just a lot sweatier and more crowded than others.







Lollapalooza
Grant Park, Chicago
August 1-3





Medieval Times
2001 N Roselle Ave
Schaumburg, IL 60195
(888) WE-JOUST










































































































Lollapalooza Day 2 - Sometimes it’s Worth Battling a Sea of Shirtless Dudes and Sometimes it’s Not

August 6th, 2008
GREG WROTE:

Because I’m an idiot, I played basketball in running shoes on the morning of Day 2, and because I’m a terrible basketball player, I rolled my right ankle. Twice. The first time stung, the second time had me pounding on the court floor and screaming expletives in front of children.

A couple of ice packs and a handful of Motrin later, I hobbled onto the train around 3:00 with Joe and Tarek so that we could get to Grant Park in time to see Perry Farrell deejay. The three of us are huge Jane’s Addiction (and Porno For Pyros) fans, and so we didn’t want to miss this opportunity. Last year at Lollapalooza, when Joe was working for MTV, Perry walked into the MTV cabana during the Daft Punk performance with his boy on his shoulders, and I had to go over and shake his hand and say that I was a fan. I realize that left one less hand to keep his boy steady up there, but that was a risk I was willing to take and not think about.

Oh, and we got official texts from the Lolla people saying that Slash of Guns ‘N Roses was going to be Perry’s special guest.

We arrived at the tent 30 minutes into Perry’s set and politely moved our way into the center.

Hmmm. Um. Ugh. Damn, his new solo stuff is awful. The three of us, plus everyone in my periphery, cringed while watching the founder of Lollapalooza and the front man for one of the best rock bands in history sing boring electronica songs with his hot, gyrating wife. The sound actually went out twice during their set, but that’s not why everyone had a concerned look on their face.

But, hey, Slash did show up - signature cigarette hanging from his lips and all - and he plugged in next to Perry’s guitarist. The crowd exploded, chanting “Slash” until the legendary guitarist nodded a thanks.

The song got off to a slow start. Slash’s guitar was barely audible, as was Perry’s voice. Everyone begged them to turn it up. The other guitarist made guitarist faces, trying not to look like a chump next to Slash. The music began to build.

And then the power went out.

For a long time.

Perry, looking terribly frustrated and embarrassed as he messed with a laptop and some headphones, eventually had to wave goodbye to the crowd. Slash’s and Perry’s kids came on stage to wave, too, and then everyone was gone. But the crowd continued to chant, first for Slash and then for Perry, and we were able to move up even closer as a lot of the audience gave up on an encore. But, after 10 minutes, they got the power back on and everyone came back on stage. Perry pushed a button and Jane’s Addiction’s most famous track, “Jane Says,” started up in an electronic beat-y kind of way. It was recognizable and the crowd went nuts.

And then the power went out.

For good.

Slash kept playing his guitar as if he didn’t even notice, and Perry, after coming to terms with the fact that even though he was able to organize an event that can accommodate 225,000 fans and over 100 bands in the span of three days and yet somehow no one could help him get this little tent’s power pumping, put down his microphone and began singing inaudibly. The crowd instantly joined in and we all sang “Jane’s Says” a capella together under that hot tent, making a lemon-flavored watery drink out of a black lemon.

We had a lot of time before Claire arrived to see Broken Social Scene, so we meandered around like my father at a shopping mall. Eventually we stumbled upon the “Green Street” where there were booths selling sustainable and environmentally friendly products, a Whole Foods tent/plaza, a tent where you could trade in a garbage bag of plastic bottles found around the park in exchange for a free T-shirt or tote bag (which I thought was a brilliant idea), and place where you could offset your carbon footprint by purchasing carbon credits.

Close by was a Barack Obama tent, and I was able to register to vote (no more Ohio for me) in Illinois next door.

Claire arrived to a standing ovation by me, and the four of us sat to watch Broken Social Scene play a great set. Like the day before, I watched half of their performance before setting out for the other end of the park to see a headliner: Rage Against the Machine. Claire walked with us halfway before heading back to get a grassy seat for Wilco.

When Rage stabbed at the first chords of “Testify,” the crowd surged forward. We were about 50 yards away, stage left, and happy with our position, so we stood our ground and let the spastic, shirtless drunk guys move up without us. And almost immediately the singer, Zach de la Rocha, stopped the show because there were people getting smashed against the barrier, people getting beat up in several mosh circles that had formed, and people trying to escape it all only to be blocked from doing so. He pleaded everyone there to take 10 steps back more than once and finally they started up again. But he stopped the show two more times asking everyone to take care of each other and to move back.

Luckily, we were unaffected by all this except for the pauses in the music and the steady stream of soaked pit-goers stumbling past us for a breather. There are only a few things I hate worse than when some sweaty asshole in a sweat-drenched shirt at a concert brushes up against my forearms. It’s definitely one of those touches that lingers for days.

But RATM, reunited after several years, sounded perfect. Tom Morello, as always, was incredible.

And then I limped my way toward the inner streets of Chicago, trying desperately to hail down a cab. Claire was already home, reading and on the computer, and the three of us guys eventually settled for a packed train ride back. The day wasn’t nearly as hot, but the event was definitely heating up.

CLAIRE WROTE:

When I first moved to Chicago I lived in this shitty apartment building on the north end of Lincoln Park. My apartment was on the second floor, sandwiched between a strange, young couple on the floor above me who were prone to 2AM alcohol-infused arguments, and a quadrant of DePaul college boys in a sprawling first floor apartment.

The laundry in the building was in the basement, accessible only by walking through the college boys’ apartment, which they graciously kept unlocked at all times. If I went downstairs to do laundry before noon, the boys were never anywhere to be seen. Quietly pushing open their half-closed back door, I would step gingerly over pizza boxes and empty cans of beer, maneuvering around a giant bong sitting in front of the big screen television in the living room, and being extra careful not to tip over a tower of beer cans near the window. All the bedroom doors would be shut before noon, and I could practically picture the boys, sprawled on their stomachs, still in last night’s clothes, their mouths open, perhaps a little drool edging down the bare mattress beneath them.

If I went down to do laundry after 2pm, they were usually awake. I’d push open the back door, and in the kitchen one or two of them would be standing in front of the microwave, shirtless, in a pair of shorts, watching little microwaveable pizza rolls go round and round and round. “Hey,” they’d mumble in my direction, transfixed by the pizza rolls. In the living room the rest of them, and perhaps an added friend or two, would be sprawled across the two couches watching “Wedding Crashers” or “Happy Gilmore” or playing “Guitar Hero,” all of them smoking cigarettes, the bong now on the makeshift coffee table between them. “Hey,” they’d mumble, never taking their eyes off the television, and I’d wind my way through them, carefully carrying my basket of dirty clothes down to the basement.

All this to say that I often wondered if they ever went outside, except to smoke cigarettes sometimes on the dingy little back porch, if they ever did anything beside drink and watch television and play video games.

And I’d forgotten about those college boys, practically erased them from my memory, just as I had that dark and depressing little apartment I lived in my first six months here in Chicago. I think I would have forgotten about them forever, had it not dawned on me, within my first two minutes of attending Day 2 of Lollapalooza, that if the college boys ever did anything besides drink beer, play video games, and watch television, they, without a doubt, they made one excursion outside each year and it was most likely for Lollapalooza.

I think the first thing I said to Greg, after ten minutes of pushing my way through a teeming sea of thousands of drunk, shirtless college boys so that I could find my way to wherever it was Greg and his friends were by the time I got down to the park on that second day was, “I officially hate Lollapalooza.”

Greg, with his sprained ankle, hobbled off to a tiny grass spot with me, looking a little dejected and disappointed by my proclamation, and I tried to put on a smile after that, but it felt good to declare my vitriol for this event. Our little group headed over to Budlight Stage after a while to catch a very good Broken Social Scene performance. On the way there I registered to vote at the Rock the Vote tent, which was something I’ve needed to do since my move, and may turn out to be the only redeemable aspect of my Lollapalooza experience.

After listening to Broken Social Scene for a while, I finally mellowed out a bit, mostly because they were just so good, and because we’d found a comfortable patch of grass on which to sit. Around 7:30, Greg and his friends headed off to see Rage Against the Machine at the other end of the park, where we’d seen Radiohead, and I stayed behind by myself to catch the Wilco performance.

I had some time to kill before Wilco, so I bought two glasses of red wine for myself and began wandering around, looking for a mellow spot where I could sit by myself. The funny thing was that as soon as I was alone, I felt more comfortable. Maybe there is something about trying to stay in a group at an event like this that makes it hard to enjoy yourself. When there was finally no one else to worry about, I no longer had a problem weaving through the crowds of people, the blue summer sky curving overhead.

I was about to just sit down in the grass to sip my wine and get ready for Wilco when I noticed the music coming from another stage. I propped myself up against a little wall and began to listen. There was a vivacious black woman on stage, strutting back and forth and just singing her heart out. Behind her, an ensemble band kicked out some fantastic sounds and before I knew it my foot was tapping.

“Who is this?” I asked a guy standing near me.

Sharon Jones and the Dap-Kings,” he replied.

“Thanks, they’re great!”

“I know.”

I’m not very good at writing about music but I will say that this woman was just electric. I don’t care if you don’t like funk or the blues, you would have liked this. The music filled up all the space around me and before I knew it, I was just happy. There with my two glasses of red wine and my solitary company, listening to Sharon Jones, was definitely my favorite moment at Lollapalooza.

By the time Wilco came on, it was dark out, I was more than tipsy, and hearing those old familiar songs that have been the soundtrack for so many days and events over my last few years instantly brought tears to my eyes. Jeff Tweedy’s voice, ringing out across the audience, the skyline sparkling behind the stage, I couldn’t help but have one of those moments in which I was nothing but grateful for my life and all the experiences I get to have while I’m here.

And if battling a sea of shirtless college boys was the price to pay for that, then it was well worth it.













Lollapalooza
Grant Park, Chicago
August 1-3

















































































































Lollapalooza Day 1 - D.A.R.E Shirts, Fainting Nacho Buyers, Radiohead and a Hell of a Lot of People

August 4th, 2008
GREG WROTE:

I changed quickly in the men’s room at work on Friday, folding up my pants carefully in hopes of somehow retaining their crease before I shoved them in my backpack, and I met Claire and my friend Joe in from NYC for the first (half-)day of Lollapalooza.

Along with a sea of others, the three of us walked toward Buckingham Fountain - the festival’s entrance at Grant Park - around 4:15, just in time to hear The Black Keys start on the other side of the fence. I saw the band at Lolla last year, and so I wasn’t going to plow through all the people around me to get in there any quicker. The day was sold out, and you had to square your shoulders and then dip them constantly to move through the ever-moving crowd of hippies, hipsters, kids, clubbers, frat boys, and band members, all of whom seem to be wearing American Apparel, going in the opposite direction.

Claire, I think, regretted buying her three-day pass to Lollapalooza in her first three minutes. She was curious about the festival because she’s never been to an outdoor event like this before, but the crowd size and the heat really freaked her out: There were 75,000 people there and it was over 90 degrees.

We walked around for a bit, having about an hour before Cat Power went on, and that was the first show that we had all agreed on watching. So we checked out some random tents, stood in different shades, gawked at the outfits of men and women alike, and eventually stopped by Perry’s, a new tent this year that played primarily dance music. James Curd was spinning at the time, mixing together some fun beats and music, and pockets of his crowd were really getting into it.

Cat Power was kinda boring. After a couple songs we met up with my friend Tarek, and the four of us decided to get some dinner before The Raconteurs went on. The sun was still in full force, and while Claire and I were in line for some exciting tacos, a guy fainted right next to us. Poor guy’s nachos fell right on his chest, leaving a killer guacamole stain. After being helped up, the dude stumbled toward the shade. A young kid followed him, waving his smashed sunglasses. Less than a minute later I had to escort Claire to the shade herself as she said she was feeling lightheaded and seeing spots.

Yes, I totally had someone hold my place in line.

It was then when we started counting things. For example, I saw two Weezer logos in less than thirty seconds, one of which was on this dude’s chest:

Yikes.

We were surprised to see four D.A.R.E. shirts in the immediate crowd, but at the same time not surprised at all. It was sad, though, to watch these dirty and long-haired kids try to be ironic with this T-shirt twenty years after the first dirty and long-haired kids tried to make this statement. It was never very witty - for a kid who used drugs to wear a D.A.R.E. shirt - and yet the trend somehow continues.

The Raconteurs hit the stage right as we finished our conversation about the D.A.R.E. officer who used to visit our grade school, and as if we weren’t hot enough, Jack White and Brendan Benson and the rest of the band melted our faces off. Their 2008 disc, “Consolers of the Lonely,” was already up there for disc of the year for me, and this performance was tight, explosive and crowd-rallying.

We listened to the second half of their set while walking in the opposite direction. Radiohead went on at 8:00, and that’s why there was 75,000 people there that day. So, in order to find a decent spot in the massive field on the other side of Grant Park, we took off early.

Madness. We stepped over and pushed through thousands of people just to get 75 yards from the stage. Claiming our land with our asses, we sat and waited over a half hour before Radiohead started.

Directly in front of us there was a large circle of 18-year-olds wearing their sunglasses past dusk, passing around a huge blunt.

The lights on the stage went black and the first blips and boops of Radiohead were heard. Everyone stood up, screaming and jumping up and down and pushing each other in the shoulders in disbelief and… but, wait, these kids in the circle continued to sit there hunched over, passing their dope around with straight faces like they were in one of their basements right after school. Of course I let this distract me - fucking Radiohead was waaaay up there and these kids were in my immediate vision - and I came this close to lecturing them, telling them that they looked like a commercial for the War on Drugs, explaining that they’re supposed to take their highs to their feet and enjoy the rock and roll show like a nice pot smoker should.

Finally, I convinced myself to pay attention to the band, to not worry about these losers in front of me, but it only lasted twenty minutes before I focused all my thoughts on the girl who climbed the tower to my left, envisioning her falling in many, many, many different ways.








CLAIRE WROTE:
Sometime in the last week I began to grow nervous about Lollapalooza. I’d never been to a large music festival before, but when Greg asked me several months ago if I wanted to go, I took a look at the lineup of bands and said yes, without hesitation.

It wasn’t until this last week when I started wondering what it would actually be like to see these bands in the company of 75,000 people.

“I’m nervous,” I told Greg.

“Don’t be.”

“Will it be very crowded?” I asked him.

“Nah, not too bad.”

“Will I get dirty? I feel like I’m going to get dirty.”

“Nope,” he said shaking his head.

“Hmmm,” I persisted. “I just worry that the whole experience is going to be so unrelenting.”

“You’ll be fine.”

And then there we were on Friday afternoon, walking towards the gates and all I could see were the thousands of people streaming in, most of them already slick with sweat and intoxication, and all I could think was: This is truly my worst nightmare. As my three-day pass was tied onto my wrist and Greg turned around to take a photo…

… with a big grin on his face, indicative of his excitement for being at Lollapalooza, I attempted to fix a smile on my face and silently vowed to soldier on and at least give this thing a shot.

We wandered around, checking everything out. I couldn’t believe how enormous and crowded everything was. There were people everywhere. Most of them were white. Most of them were college age. Most of them were drinking. Most of them were sweating. Most of them were wearing minimal amounts of clothing. It was definitely good people watching, but nonetheless, I was trying to stay calm at the thought of three whole days of this.

We started off by watching Cat Power on one of the smaller stages. I’d been looking forward to seeing Chan Marshall live. The last time I did was about 3 years ago in Los Angeles at the Troubadour, a tiny little venue on Santa Monica Blvd, and I found out later that Marshall had just taken a couple of hits of acid before going on, hence her a capella rapping and obsession with the sound check during the show. I’ve since read a lot about her personal transformations her ability to overcome her crippling stage fright, so I was interested to see her again.

And while she sounded good and seemed quite comfortable on stage, there was something seeing her on this hot afternoon, surrounded by thousands of people, that actually made her kind of boring, or at least not at all what I was in the mood for. We broke out of the crowd, midway through the set and headed over to the snack area and while standing in line for a taco with Greg, I began to black out. It was an odd sensation. I just got nauseous at first and then my vision got all black and crinkly around the edges. Greg led me over to a picnic bench to recover while he went back for food. I felt better after a few minutes, but the experience didn’t add to my enjoyment of Lollapalooza 2008.

Next up we found a patch of grass and listened to The Raconteurs. This turned out to actually be one of my favorite bands of the festival. They sounded fantastic and it was exciting to see Jack White up on the big screens with the city behind him. I finally relaxed a little and tried not to think about the swarms of people all around us.

Before they finished, our little group all started to head over to the other side of the park so that we could attempt to find a good seat for the headliner that night, Radiohead. I was definitely looking forward to seeing Radiohead. I saw them once at the Hollywood Bowl four years ago and they were just amazing live. Walking across the park however, was an experience unto itself, with what seemed like all 75,000 heading in the same direction at the same time.

I’m sorry to be so whiny about this, but it’s just not my cup of tea. I enjoy seeing bands perform live… but just not with this many people, outdoors and in extreme heat. And I don’t think I have to like it either. After a lot of tramping around and weaving in and out of people, and after watching multiple drunk people trip past us, spilling beer on the people sitting below them, we finally found a little patch of grass to call our own.

And there’s no other way to say this, other than to say that seeing Radiohead under these conditions, was just not that enjoyable. They sounded pretty great, but I could hardly see anything save for the people all around me and there was nothing romantic or interesting about sitting in this shoddy patch of grass, trying not to concentrate on the weird hippie woman tripping by next to me.

I think it was only after we left, shortly before the Radiohead set ended, and we were outside the park, walking along Michigan Avenue and you could still hear the music, loud and floating, and the city was all lit up, and it was a warm summer evening, and there was space between me and those around me, that I was finally able to enjoy myself.





Lollapalooza
Grant Park, Chicago
August 1-3



A Summer Cold is Not Enough to Keep Anyone From Experiencing Perennial

August 1st, 2008
GREG WROTE:

BOKA chef Guiseppe Tentori is the executive chef at the just-opened and much-hyped Perennial, and ever since we dined at BOKA in early June and had that amazing meal, I’ve been salivating to get to Perennial. Seriously, I have. Ask Claire. I’ve been wearing a bib for almost two straight months now in anticipation.

- Plus side of going everywhere with a bib on: I’m always given a seat on the train.

- Negative side of going everywhere with a bib on: After I’m sitting down, the other riders are always trying to shove whatever food they find on the floor into my mouth.

Claire and I waited at the small bar, sipping drinks that included fruit-infused vodkas and flower petals and that had names like “#14″ and “Why Not?”, and we watched the restaurant on the corner of Clark and Lincoln slowly fill toward capacity.

We were given a window booth - the wall-length window was open but the air conditioning blew straight down on us - and we munched on starters, including gulf shrimp risotto and gazpacho.

But before we began with the apps, the four of us at the table were given a single piece of bread each. A small plate of butter was passed around, and as I buttered my bread like I normally do, I saw that Claire and the two other women at the table had smeared their butter onto their plates next to their bread. I took a moment to look at my buttered piece of bread in embarrassment. When did this start? The buttering of plates instead of the buttering of slices? I really don’t think that’s a ship I want to sail on.

For dinner, I went with the black kingfish.


(That’s not me. Totally a Google image of some rascally fisherman in his Juicy Fruit tee with a king blackfish.)

Delicious. Crisp and moist and enough.

We also ordered a few side dishes, and the one that really stood out for me was the potato puree. Wow. I wanted to shrink down to the size of an ant and swim in it with my mouth open and motion over to all my ant buddies to jump in - “The potato’s fine!” - but then I would rethink this and pull out my ant gun and tell them all the step the fuck back because this puree is way too good to share.

Waaaaaay too good.

CLAIRE WROTE:

Last night I wasn’t feeling well. I have one of those summer colds that feels so wrong to have when it’s so nice outside. It’s one of those colds that would normally keep you home for the evening, on the couch surfing through reality television, while simultaneously flipping through an old US Weekly. But instead, last night found me in a window seat at Perennial. Greg and I had plans to dine there and there was no way I was backing out, cold or no cold.

Perennial is the new restaurant by Rob Katz and Kevin Boehm, the guys behind BOKA and Landmark. Giuseppe Tentori, the chef at BOKA, who was recently named one of Food & Wine’s Best New Chefs, oversees the menu at Perennial but leaves the dirty work to Ryan Poli (formerly of Butter).

Perennial is located in one of my favorite spots in Chicago — right on the intersection where Lincoln Avenue and Clark Street intersect. The restaurant is housed in the yet-to-open Park View Hotel and is just across the street from Lincoln Park where the Green City Farmer’s Market is held every Saturday and Wednesday (Alice Waters just named Green City one of the top 10 best farmers markets in the country). We had a booth in the window with fantastic views shooting straight up both Lincoln and Clark, the kind of views that remind you that you are sitting in a sexy new restaurant on a warm summer evening in one of the greatest cities in the world.

The four of us who were dining started off with a slew of appetizers including pillowy beet gnocchi with goat cheese, a smoky and refreshing gazpacho, creamy risotto with gulf shrimp and the already renowned raw surf and turf (big eye tuna and Angus Strip loin). Since I wasn’t feel well, I opted for a vegetarian entree hoping that it wouldn’t weigh me down too much and my choice didn’t disappoint. House-made agnolotti with a creamy asparagus-based sauce was perfectly soothing and delicately rich. Sides of watermelon and tomato salad, truffled mac and cheese, potato puree, a green bean salad and ratatouille were equally blissful — I literally couldn’t decide which to stop eating first.

And one of the best parts of the whole evening is that throughout dinner, while I sat next to Greg, I was facing A New Leaf, the event space where we were planning to get married next April but which swiftly became too complicated and costly. It was a surreal and validating experience to look across at that place and know that all the fretting and agonizing is over, and that the wonderfully funny and sweet man beside me is already my husband.






Perrenial
1800 N Lincoln Ave
312.981.7071



Be it Either Walking Down the Aisle or Standing Up at the Alter, That Moment has its Moments

July 23rd, 2008
GREG WROTE:

My Dad’s head was in the way and so I had to shuffle to the right to get a good view of my bride-to-very-soon-be. Claire stood 50 feet away in the doorway, all Vera Wanged, all flowing veiled, her left arm interlocked with her older brother’s arm, her right arm holding up a bouquet, her smile freezing the entire congegration.

Pause.

Organ music.

Up near the alter, my heart jumped into my throat and shoveled around a bunch of old frog carcases.

And then Claire was off, marching slowly toward me as the most beautiful woman I’d ever seen. Time moved differently. My smile didn’t move at all. I had no breath.

I had no body. I was just this floating head mesmerized by this gorgeous woman in white that, holy shit, was coming right at me.

Or that was coming right at my floating head. Whatever, man. It’s pretty hard to describe what it feels like when the woman you love is walking down the aisle at your wedding without bowing to all the cliche gods. It’s a blur and yet it’s in slow motion.

I stepped down to take her hand, holding it gentler than I ever have before.

I’ve seen it happen before; I’ve seen brides march down the aisle to their groom, but it was always from the comfort of my pew. And my thoughts were always so different when I watched one of those other brides move past me:

- Wow.
- Beautiful.
- Slut.
- Gum. Man, I could really use some gum. Is it awful to ask someone for gum while the bride is walking down the aisle? Maybe this guy next to me has some gum, or some Altoids even. Maybe not. The guy looks like he got dressed in the dark and barely remembered his socks, let alone a pack of Trident. I love Trident. It’s totally my favorite gum at the moment. The orange kind is great.
- I wonder if it’s gonna be a sit-down dinner or buffet style.
- I need a drink of water.
- I need a beer.
- Tell me we’re not going to be doing the whole Catholic mass with this one.

Claire and I were suddenly standing next to each other, in front of everyone up at the alter. It was a moment I’ll never forget. The only thought I had was that I was lucky. Really lucky. Not only was I marrying this amazing woman before me who was about to promise me lifelong things and accept my promises of lifelong things and who would one day hopefully have my children and who would sleep next to me forever, but I totally had a pack of Trident in my pocket. Sometimes everything falls into place.






CLAIRE WROTE:

I was never one of those girls who dreamed of getting married.

Until I met Greg, I’d never even fantasized about a wedding or what my dress would look like or what it would feel like to walk down the aisle. Truthfully, until I met Greg, I didn’t know if I ever wanted to get married.

I think I told him that on our first date. We were walking across the bridge at Millennium Park here in Chicago, holding hands, both of us already so enamored with the other, and I remember thinking, I should tell him now, just so there are no illusions about where this is going. And I did. I told him that I didn’t know if I ever wanted to get married and that I wasn’t sure if I wanted to have kids. He nodded serenely and smiled, gazing out across the cityscape without even blinking an eye, and we kept walking.

It’s laughable to me to look back on that moment. Because I think every moment since has been infused with a desire to marry Greg and create a life and a family with him. Maybe he already knew that I felt that way, or knew that I would, and that’s why he didn’t react to my oh-so serious statements about the future. I think it was just after our second date when I began keeping a journal to him about our courtship. In the very first entry I promised to give the book to him on our wedding day. And last weekend I did just that. But not before reading my vows from the last pages of it.

I digress. This is supposed to be about what it felt like to walk down the aisle at my wedding. What a huge thing. Where to even begin? There are a million parts of my life that come into play just in that one moment. From my half-brother who walked with me to my mother’s sisters who stood where she was not, from the church in which we were in — the same in which my parents were married — to the silver sandals on my feet.

I think I was the calmest person out of everyone on the morning of our wedding. Everyone else was rushing around, making sure there were flowers and hair dryers, programs and tissues. I was ready to go to the church before anyone else was and lingered in my aunt’s kitchen while my maid of honor and my soon-to-be mother-in-law frantically threw their things together. It was only when I was waiting in the dressing room in the final minutes before the ceremony began that I grew nervous.

I wasn’t nervous about getting married or about Greg, rather I was just overcome with the enormity of it all, this immense thing that we were about to do. I listened to the organ playing and knew that the best man and maid of honor were probably walking down the aisle. I pictured our families in the pews, waiting for everything to begin. My half-brother, Mike, stood at the door of the dressing room, guarding me from Greg’s sight, until it was time for me to emerge.

My heart raced as he nodded at me, signaling that Greg’s parents were now walking him down the aisle. I took deep breaths, my chest feeling tight and looked into the mirror one last time. I’d never felt more beautiful, in my gorgeous dress with my hair up and veil trailing out behind me. Finally, Mike looked at me and smiled, “Let’s go, kiddo.” I nodded at him, offering a wobbly smile in return.

Together we walked out from the dressing room and into the open doorway that faced the interior of the church.

We stopped there, taking it all in, our families and friends, the high ceilings and bright midday light. I had meant to look up at Mike before we began to move forward but I forgot, my eyes scanning past everyone, searching for Greg.

He was looking back at me, moving closer to the center of the church so that he could see me. Mike and I began to walk, my arm tight around his, and I just couldn’t take my eyes of off Gregory. Standing there in his suit, a smile on his face, I recognized that same serene look he’d given me over a year ago on that bridge in Millennium Park and knew that he’d never doubted that this moment would come.



Getting Hitched is Something We Can Both Agree On

July 16th, 2008
GREG WROTE:
Apparently we’re going on some kind of fancy snipe hunt this weekend that requires me to pack my suit and we won’t be posting for a week or so. I don’t know. Claire’s planning this one.




CLAIRE WROTE:

As dedicated as we are to She Wrote, He Wrote, Greg and I will be out of commission for a couple of days….GETTING MARRIED!